MENOMINEE RIVER, Mich. and Wis. -- Since 2019 a group of concerned members of the Menominee Indian Tribe of Wisconsin and their supporters have paddled 48 miles down the Menominee River -- a four-day trip from an area near its banks where sacred Menominee burial grounds and pre-historic gardens, as well as the river, are threatened by the proposed Back 40 sulfide mine for gold, copper and other metals.
Keweenaw Now has published several articles on these canoe trips with the help of Internet communications, but this year we had the opportunity to attend the event in person for the first day. Thanks to a double kayak borrowed from Dean Juntunen of Mass City, we enjoyed paddling along with the participants and experiencing the peaceful beauty of the Menominee River.
Participants in the 2024 Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Trip paddle down the Menominee River during the first day of a four-day trip. Supporters are welcome to join the group at any stage of the trip. (Video by Keweenaw Now)
Co-organizers of the canoe trip, since its beginnings, are Menominee tribal members Wayne Swett and Dawn Wilber, who spoke with Keweenaw Now about the purpose of the trip and its growth during the past six years.
Wayne Swett, co-organizer of the Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Journey for the past six years, speaks about the growth and success of the annual event and its role in the opposition to the proposed Back 40 mining project. (Video by Keweenaw Now)
Dawn Wilber, co-organizer of the Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Trip, speaks with Keweenaw Now on its beginnings and its dual purpose. (Video by Keweenaw Now)
Here is how Dawn described on Facebook Day 1 of this year's trip: "Our first day of our 4-Day Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Journey. We have some old friends and some new friends joining us. Today we saw 21 eagles, 2 eagle nests, 3 sturgeon and 2 deer; it is always so amazing to see our relatives on this beautiful river! Water was higher than usual and we were able to take on an additional run today because of it. Somewhere where we haven’t been able to go until today. It was an amazing day with slightly cloudy skies and not too hot."
While the high water level prevented stopping on a familiar sand bar, the group still found a spot on the river suitable for cooling off. Actual swimming in the current of the river was risky, however, as Keweenaw Now's editor discovered. Thanks to help from alert swimmer Bella, she quickly made it to shore!
Thanks to chief chef Ann Marie Oshkosh, Dawn's sister, a copious lunch was prepared each day for the hungry paddlers:
One faithful supporter of the Menominee Canoe Trip since its beginning is Tina Lesperance, a member of the Coalition to SAVE the Menominee River and a good friend of Menominee tribal members. Tina has often assisted with the canoe trip, but this year was the first time she was able to paddle down the river and she did all four days, sharing a canoe with co-organizer Wayne Swett.
Just before setting out on the second day, July 5, Tina spoke with Keweenaw Now about her experience and the reason for her participation:
Tina Lesperance, who has been involved with the Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Journey since its beginnings six years ago, speaks with Keweenaw Now about her first day joining in a canoe. Tina paddled all four days with co-organizer Wayne Swett. (Video by Keweenaw Now)After completing the entire 48-mile trip, Tina shared her reactions to paddling the whole way:
"I was fortunate enough to join my Menominee Tribe friends on their 6th annual canoe trip down the Menominee River," Tina writes. "I only planned on doing the first day and part of the last day but I decided to do the entire journey. There was so much comaraderie and fun on this trip! On the trip we saw so many eagles and sturgeon among other wild creatures. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking! The trip enforced my belief and conviction that we must do everything in our power to protect the Menominee River and our environment from metallic sulfide mining like the Back Forty Project proposes!"
Spencer Gauthier, Menominee tribal member and Menominee Tribal Legislature secretary, and his wife, Dorothy, also joined the canoe trip. Here Spencer tells Keweenaw Now why he participated:
Spencer Gauthier, Menominee tribal member and legislator whose father fought the Crandon Mine in Wisconsin, tells Keweenaw Now why he decided to join the 2024 Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Journey. (Video by Keweenaw Now)Wayne Swett was happy to help Spencer connect with his ancestors during Day 1 of the trip.
"History was made as we stopped at the Oxbow, the site of the 1st Menominee council meeting," Wayne wrote in his Facebook comments on Day 1. "It was a powerful moment as he stood up there on the bank of the Oxbow. Way to go, Spencer, proud of ya!"
Two friends who shared a canoe during the trip, Regina Chaltry and Christine Fossen-Rades, also spoke with Keweenaw Now after Day 1 of the trip.
Some rainy weather on Day 2, July 5, challenged the paddlers.Participants in the Canoe Trip on Day 2 donned rain gear and faced a faster river. (Photo courtesy Protectors of the Menominee River)
"Threats of storms so we got out early and got in early but we made our mark! Now the sun is shining. So proud of everyone. We didn’t let the rain hold us back," wrote Dawn on Facebook. "Not as many eagles today but the ones we saw were amazing. Also seeing the large mouth bass jumping out of the water in front of us is always awesome to see! Shout out to River Alliance for your Support in our Journey, it is so much appreciated!! Sinny and I made sure to wear our new shirts today! Wāēwāēnen from all us River Rats!"
Wayne reported via Facebook on Day 2 that Jeff Lindbom, who lives on the river, joined the group upstream from his house, accompanied by his paddle buddy, Walter.
"We escorted him to his house," Wayne writes. "After dropping him off we decided to skip the sandbar we usually stop at due to high water and paddled to our next stop at Kelly Anderson's house. Waewaenon Kelly for letting us park our canoes overnight! That segment took 4 hrs to complete."
Saturday, July 6, Day 3, was a special day, Dawn noted with a video of the twin islands Rora and Bella, named for her twin great nieces who joined her on the trip this year.
"We were all in complete awe of the whole scenery back there," Dawn said. "I have no words to explain the feeling we all had because it was beyond absolute beauty. With the water being a little higher this year, we were able to explore a little more river. This river never ceases to amaze me."
Dawn also listed the "relatives" observed on Day 3: 12 eagles, 4 Eagles' nests, 3 green heron, 1 crane, 3 baby martens, 3 sturgeon, a few fish jumping, and a bunch of turtles she couldn't count.
Wayne reported the progress on Day 3, including the visit with supporter Sally Draze and her husband, Ed, who live on the river: "Arrived at our 1st portage and put in at the McAllister bridge enroute to our next stop over at Sally Draze house! Along the way we ran into Jody K., a friend, and briefly visited. Checked on 2 eagle nests on the Twin islands. As we arrived at Sal's she was standing on the river bank waiting for us! Canoes were tied down for the night and it was time for a meet and greet around the firepit as supporters had come to visit."
Sally Draze told Keweenaw Now about the visit to her home.
"We all sat around in a circle around a campfire pit to sit and visit while I served refreshments. I invited some friends to meet them. I asked the folks that were in the journey to introduce themselves. Ann Marie Oshkosh, speaking in her native language, asked them to share a little of their story too. They focused on the significance of protecting the river. I personally was so impressed how the teacher (Christine) shared how her students have written numerous letters to the legislatures in defense for the river. It was a humbling educational sharing from everyone. I am proud to call them my friends." Inset photo: Sally Draze. (Photo courtesy Sally Draze)
Two of Sally's visiting friends also sent Sally these comments on the experience:
Ann Holmquist said, "Sally, the only thing that comes to my mind is the quote from the female leader how important it is for our future generations to know and share the stories that she shares."
Michele Holdorf told Sally the young participants impressed her most: "Yes! The attendance of the younger folks (teenagers and very young adults). Their interest in the event, their absolute respect for all elders, and their interest in preserving their culture and the environment made the biggest impression on me."
Two of those Menominee young people, who have now paddled the Menominee on the Menominee Canoe Journey twice, the first time in 2022, are Cedar Fernandez and Jeremiah Moses Jr.
Cedar's name in Menominee is Waqsepāēkacīwen (sparkling, flowing water).
"I am a Water Protector of the Menominee River," Cedar says. "Each journey has been healing and eye opening for me as we paddled on the Menominee River, our ancestral place of origin as Menominee people. Canoeing on this river means so much to us, not only as Menominee people but for protecting this bringer of life for everyone (human and non-human) around the great lakes. Protecting the Menominee River from the metallic sulfide Back Forty Mine is protecting the lives in Wisconsin, our homelands, and our ancestral connections with grandmother earth. When you join us on the Menominee River you stand up for the water and use your strength to support this water -- this life -- that has continually supported us all."
Cedar will be studying early childhood education this fall at the College of Menominee Nation.
Jeremiah Moses Jr., who attends the College of Menominee Nation, is studying sustainability. He has also been studying the Menominee language. Here he speaks with Keweenaw Now about his interests:
During the first day of the 2024 Menominee Canoe Trip, Jeremiah Moses Jr., a student at College of Menominee Nation and a Menominee Tribal member, introduces himself in the Menominee language and tells Keweenaw Now about his sustainability studies at the college. (Video by Keweenaw Now)After completing the entire four-day trip, Jeremiah sent this comment to Keweenaw Now: "We canoe to watch over the water but there’s many reasons we do it. When I’m canoeing on the Menominee River, I feel our ancestors. I feel as they push my canoe for me when I get too tired. I feel them watching over us on that river. I feel their smiles because we are bringing our ways of being into each new day. I feel their lives in the ripples and their breath in the wind. Our ancestors love us, the land loves us, and the water loves us, and I love them too."
Two kayakers from one family who paddled the 4-day trip were Laureen Kaprelian and her son, Thomas Duncanson of Wallace, Michigan.
"My son and I took this trip to spend time together kayaking and camping after hearing from a friend of their mission to bring awareness that we need to save the river from mining and its detrimental effects," Laureen told Keweenaw Now. "We learned the importance of the Menominee River not only to the area's indigenous people, but to us, the wildlife and the environment. We learned about culture and thousands of years of history of great people who lived here and on our river -- people who believed if you take great care and respect of all that was created, you in turn will receive more from it. We learned that there is much more to the saying 'water is life,' that it has been taken for granted as most things have (with) repercussions that are not good. We are humbled and privileged to have been a part of this trip of great learning and beauty, and we are grateful and honored to have these new friends in our life. We will continue to help them with their mission by joining them again next year and in any way we can to Save the Menominee. Water is Life. Wāēwāēnen (thank you) to our Menominee friends."
Laureen added that her son, Thomas, said this trip was better than any one he has ever taken, even the ones her mom paid lots of money for! He said he admired the young men tending the fire with the fire keeper Dave as they worked harder than any boys he's seen. That they had so much respect for their elders and wished the kids off the reservation were taught that also. He also said something Laureen will never forget -- that he saw the young men were "not just strong in body but in heart and mind."
Thomas was talking about Joe Moses and Ronnie Dickie, who worked at the camp site, helped load and transport the canoes and kayaks, and more.
Dave's wife, Ann Marie Oshkosh, also worked tirelessly to produce meals for the large group at camp as well as lunches on the river. This year her traditional food specialties included wild rice, venison, elk, buffalo, moose and fish.
Standing, l-r: Joe "Goat" Moses and Ronnie Dickie were our nātamowekowak (helpers). What an amazing addition they are to our Canoe Journey. They sure make a huge difference in our lives on the river!" Dawn writes. (Photo © and courtesy Dawn Wilber)
Wayne recounts on Facebook the challenges for paddlers on Day 4, July 7: "Took a group pic at Camp Riff Raff before heading back to Sal's for our final day on the Menominee river. Today in my opinion is the hardest day bcuz as we get towards the end the wind and boat traffic are heavy. You are paddling against the wind blowing off of the bay. We also have our last portage. After Tina and I paddled under the trestle I told her that we have yards to go and not miles. Arms are burning at this point."
Thanks to Ann Holmquist of Marinette, Wis., for sharing the following views of paddlers heading for the Harbor:
Wayne posted on Facebook his final thoughts on this trip: "The End! 48 miles later we reach the Menominee Bear at Menekaunee Harbor. We load up, take group pic and hugs all around! Water Protectors do it again! Every year we have new (friends) show up. I hope they enjoyed the trip. The rain was a test from the Creator and his messenger was watching. If you haven't been on this trip I hope to see you next year. Once you're on the Menominee river, you're hooked! Waewaenon! And No Back 40 Mine!"
Dawn reported seeing eagles, a heron, a crane and a snake on Day 4.
"Wāēwāēnen for Another Great Year!" Dawn wrote on Facebook. "Six years in and many Many more to go!"
Editor's Notes:
Keweenaw Now extends thanks -- Wāēwāēnen -- to the Menominee Canoe Journey participants who contributed photos, videos and comments to this article and to John Peiffer for paddling the double kayak that made it possible for this editor to join the journey in person this year.
And here is a song, "Words Fail," written by John Peiffer and inspired by this Menominee River Journey:
John Peiffer performs "Words Fail" during the 2024 Aura Jamboree. (Video courtesy John Peiffer)
